As could possibly be expected from your former child star, justin bieber clothes has already established many a fashion transformation over time. He’s done quiffed hair along with a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented having a floppy fringe and a suit. But although some of his attempts to toughen up have been met with derision, the newest part of the Biebvolution is really bang in the fashion money. There were ripped jeans. There have been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts with all the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen plenty of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s response to his Marques’Almeida moment with the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) nevertheless the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in to a mood that is sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
In short: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You might dub it a hot mess males, but the one thing you might never call it is hipster – manicured beards ought to be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber hoodie wore to the teen awards, is integral on the surge in interest in denim and also jeans which can be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the kind of look which makes parents eyeroll and say: “You purchased that? Do want me to get proper hems on those?”, it has legs. Elsewhere on the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers that had been roughly shut down with the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; up close, the holes within these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a superb reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, just about the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. In the short video to accompany this shoot, you may even see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, whilst the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was across just about the most talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which was locked in a Chinese restaurant variously described as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like that they had just rolled out of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); even the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots and a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is merely set to carry on: following the show, one among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, was to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is another of your buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label is supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes seem like a nerdy handle Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, although not.
Actually, if all else fails, the important thing to the look can be a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for women (see British Vogue’s December issue, through which several tracktops are featured as part of the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up summarize this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – and the dexqpkyy16 is starting to become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the contrary of all the justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear in the past few years. And finally, it’s easy to chuck on, doesn’t appear like you’ve made an effort but suggests you are aware what’s occurring. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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